Weber accelerator pump just.

[Rickard M]

Hej
Tänkte kolla hur det står till med detta eftersom jag ser att hävarmen är olika justerade på de två. Hittade lite info på utrikiska, skulle vilja ha ett par förtydliganden på svenska Se nedan:

- Accelerator Pump Volume
Measure the accelerator pump volume at each of the 6 nozzles. Before starting the car, turn the key "on" and energize the fuel pump. Let the pump run a minute or so to fill up the float bowls. The air cleaners are off. Now, lower the vial down the throat of barrel No. 1 and park it directly under the nozzle. Have the assistant in the car depress the gas pedal all the way, nice and easy. Withdraw the vial, record the results on a piece of paper, and dump the contents of the vial. Repeat at each nozzle. (You may have to remove the velocity stacks for cylinders 2, 3 and 6 to gain proper access to the nozzles for those barrels.) Adjust the nut on the accelerator pump rod as necessary. Turning the adjuster nut out will increase the amount injected, and vica versa. You want .6 to .8cc (ml) (.75cc works great). Get them all even.

Hur justerar jag dem sinsemellan de tre när det bara är en stång att skruva på?

This procedure can also be done on the bench. Just fill the float bowl that has the brass valve in the bottom that feeds fuel to the accelerator pump. Then activate the pump and measure. The advantage of measuring at this stage, as opposed to when the carburetors are attached to the intake manifolds, is that if there is a blockage, it is easy to get at the check valves, nozzles, pumps, and float bowl valves and clean them out.

Jag tänkte göra det på bänken, hur fyller man på bensin lämpligast då? Kan jag ta bort nålventilen och hälla på där eller, men hur får jag då bara i den kammare som har "avloppet" Måste man helt enkelt ta av ovandelen och blotta flotörena?

God Jul

[Rickard M]

fick ett bra svar av en kille från Californien, ifall någon mer vill veta:

Yep, 3 nozzles, 2 bowls to feed them, and 1 pump to feed all three.

This is pretty easy to do. I take the bare carbs outside, and set both ends on blocks of wood. When you crank the rod end to make the pump work, the butterflys will open below the surface of the carb body, so they need to be suspended to move freely. When you pump, gas will squirt right down through the open butterflys to the ground, so be somewhere where you can make a bit of a mess.

First check that all the nozzles are physically the same. Usually there will be a 50 inside a circle cast on them somewhere. Make sure you have the paper thin washer installed underneath each one.

What you want to prove is 1) they all work, 2) they all work the same.

When you crank the rod end a full stroke, all three nozzles will squirt. You'll need something like a small test tube, or the body of a syringe with the needle end plugged up. Something that you can tie a wire to and fit directly under a nozzle and has measurement lines on it. There is a Weber vial specifically for this, but it's about $40, which is ridiculous. A syringe body works great, but you may have to scatch in your own line at .50 or .60 as gas tends to dissolve the print on a plastic syringe. Fill your bowls with gas. One bowl feeds two nozzles, one bowl feeds the other nozzle. To test all three nozzles you'll need both bowls filled. Use this opportunity to make sure your floats float, and move freely.

Hold your vial directly under the nozzle end and crank a full stroke. Do this for each nozzle at least three times for a consistent read. Do it for each nozzle down the line. Usually they are very close to being the same. You may have one that dribbles a few drops instead of snapping off cleanly. I've had to switch nozzles around to get consistent numbers on a bank.

A bit of variation (.01-.03cc) is ok, most of that comes from the human on the end, since it's impossible to crank exactly the same each time. But you'll probably find them surprisingly precise, Webers are just great pieces.

The rod adjustment will control the volume you get with each squirt. This is what you are measuring to adjust, and obviously, you want both carbs the same. That oft-repeated instruction you referenced says .6-.8 cc. I've found, at least on 2.0 and 2.2's, that this makes for a noticable midrange bog. Just too much gas being dumped in. I usually go with about .5 cc. But I also did a set for a friend with a 3.0 this way, and it seems happy too.